1946 Oldsmobile sedanette (2024)

All these little "fill-in' fabrication jobs to do. I prefer the OEM look and had a NOS brake pedal pad so I cut some 3mm in plate into an oval shape and drilled a hole for a HT countersunk 1/2UNF bolt. I welded the bolt through the pad after shaping it to fit new rubber. Pedal pad screws directly to adapter at end of pedal arm. One less job to finish. No modern bling in this car. I'll be modifying the new throttle assembly in the same way so I can use a NOS pad.
I bit the bullet and finished fabricating the upper front shock brackets and tack welded them to the frame, they still need to be gusseted. More jigging up and measuring to ensure that they were located correctly. Once this was done I fabricated some lower control arm bump stops. The Shockwaves have them built in however I decided to add them similar to the rear, piece of mind and it'll keep my engineer happy. Once all measurements were checked for accuracy the bump stops were tack welded into position each side.
I fabbed up dummy shock stays with ride and compressed heights so I could cycle suspension and check clearances etc. As the Shockwaves fit as designed all I need to do now is drill holes on underside of frame for sway bar brackets once I have sufficient clearance to air bag through suspension cycle. I've inverted the Shockwaves and swapped lower control arms (Symmetrical design) side to side to allow more sway bar clearance due to my frame configuration. Once these little jobs had been completed it was time to fill those pockets in the outside frame rails, clearance for Shockwaves. I still need to attach brake calipers to check clearances and then mount AirRide sensors to frame side rails and run the bell cranks down to lower control arms. A lot going on in such a small area.

Mounted the rear axle oil cooler on the trunk floor beside gas tank. I need to mount the pump next and then I can get the last bit of exhaust done as everything is in place. A thermostat will control oil flow as it gets damn hot down here so we'll see how it goes. That Rivnut set came in handy so I'll be using it where I can in future, neat and tidy. I also mounted my fuel first fuel filter on rear X-member, I have a NOS Russell one to replace this. The other filter will be up near the engine due to EFI. I had my Edmunds regulator changed from NPT to AN6 however I've been advised that it now needs to be AN8.

I finished the rear torque rod (Ladder bar) and centre X-member that supports it and acts as drive shaft loop. Over engineered however I'm glad it's done now, one less thing to do.

All that is left is through frame brake lines, rear sway bar and gussets for upper front shocks

Here's the torque rod in situ. Note that it captures the axle pumpkin in the same way the OEM cradle did. I also made up these thin aluminum cover plates and gaskets for the redundant F&R ABS sensor holes in the hubs to keep all the crud out. A SS button head will hold them in place.

Good one Mark, hey that Aluminium looks familiar hahaha. There has been a lot of thought and loads of work gone in here.

Mark has done some work since there and looks great, kind of factory but better finish.

Nice stuff Mark

Great work Mark. Thanks for the continuing photo essay

Well done indeed! Nice work. Thanks for taking us along on the project.

Finished the rear braces for the engineer and recessed the X-member to allow for AC adjustment. Reinforcing plates were added to spread the load on both sides where they attach at the rear on both sides to frame, adding rigidity that was lost when the OEM brackets were removed. X-member shouldn't rock under braking forces
Not noticeable but I've sectioned the R&P mount to allow sufficient clearance for compressor and belt. Plenty of adjustment now and you won't really be able to see the AC or PS as both are mounted in close and down low, out of sight.

It's been a while since last post, in the interim I've sourced a cowl via the HAMB and had it shipped to LA and now on the way down under.
I also had the exhaust system completed with the tailpipe sections from rear axle back to tail pan. Now that rear sway bar is fitted I had to move the mufflers up slightly for better clearance, an additional elbow in each pipe solved the problem. I still need to relocate lower heim joint pivot points so joints are perpendicular, a bracket welded to larger plate will resolve that. A bit tight with airbags, gas tank, new cross-member, trunk floor etc however the shop did an excellent job in routing the 2.5" pipe. When doing mine he was also doing a system for a chopped 1937ish Dodge PU with blown 392 Hemi. Once back home I pulled exhaust off and took the pieces to the polisher.
I'm currently shortening the steering column by 2" before I can locate the support bearing boss for intermediate shaft. Once boss is welded the body comes off frame and goes onto a dolly so the frame can then be stripped down, sandblasted and powder coated. I can then have the suspension pieces polished.

This is the location of the filler panel I posted earlier. Ozzie GMH 66's ('A' body) are different to GM Fisher 76's ('B' body). A rear sheet metal gravel tray fills in the gap between body and rear bar. I have a NOS one, a lot more cost effective and less time consuming than repairing the original damaged item.

I'll be there with John for Deuce Days, we'll see you then but not in the car, maybe next time

Now that would be nice, but to take the cars we would need to win lots of $

You've got more money that God Gary so that shouldn't be a problem